Monday, 27 January 2014

Pattern Testing the Mortmain Dress

The beginning of last year saw me do my first bit of pattern testing. The dress is The Mortmain dress by newly launched Gather patterns. They are London based and they have recently launched their first two patterns, a cute peter pan collar and this lovely dress.

I like the formal fitted style of the dress as it creates a really nice silhouette around the waist. The bodice and skirt are separated by a band creating a definite distinction between the shaped waist darts and the box pleats of the skirt.

The back is highlighted by an exposed zipper. It its the first time I have tried a dress with one of those, and while it wasn't the sort of finish I prefer (don't hate me, but I am an invisible zipper kind of girl) it was fun to experiment with the different look.

(I took a photo of the back of the dress but it has gone missing off my computer so you will just have to use your imagination!)

This was the first draft of the pattern and there have been a few tweaks made by Caroline and Sandra along the way, but I can't imagine there were many major issues as the fit was great and the length was just right for me. It got me working hard on my bust darts and fitting to my shape but the end result was lovely.

I like the idea of doing the waist band in a contrasting fabric to break up the run of the dress a bit. I may try it again with that in mind.

The box pleats are a lovely touch to the skirt and are nice and deep, giving the skirt some body.

I made mine out of a poplin weight cotton and it felt just right. The bodice is finished off with facings which can be fixed down if desired. I found the ones around my armholes needed tacking down to stop them moving about.

All in all a great pattern to have in your sewing arsenal. 


  1. Well we may be a teensy bit biased but we think it looks great! Well done for working on the fit, it's always worth it!

    I think the biggest change we made to the final version was to lower the neckline - lots of our testers found it was too high for them. The high neck looks great on your shape though!

    1. Thankyou. I hope you are rushed off your feet with orders!

  2. Wow, Katy! This looks lovely on you. Off to have a look for this pattern.... ;-)

  3. Looks fantastic Katy. I agree the waistband is a great idea to separate the bodice from the skirt.

  4. Very nice! I like the waistband and the pleats at the skirt. I'll have to check this pattern out...

  5. Thanks ladies. It is a nice girly dress, a good pattern to have.


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