Wednesday, 25 March 2015

Sew Lisette Top B6183

Lisette sewing patterns have always had a massively stylish appeal. The old ones under the Simplicity label were all really popular - I confess to having bought most of them. The instructions are good and the added tips make you feel like your garment looks more professional. 

There are four newly released Lisette patterns with Butterick that are awesome! When a pattern sale came up I scooped them all up. I love all the different pieces, they cover all bases and I can see myself making each one.

I decided to start with the princess seamed top from pattern B6183. It is the type of thing that I could wear everyday, dressed up or casual.

(Now, let me just add, I cannot use the self timer on a camera and be in the right place ie: completely in shot. So apologies, this is the best I could do.)

I did the sensible thing and made up a test fit of this top first. 

I have realised a very important thing with regards to my sewing output for myself. I have lots of patterns to try, but am afraid of wasting fabric that I have lovingly hoarded, incase it doesn't work out. So they don't get made. I know, I know... this is why you make muslins. For a long time I have been putting off doing the routine of test fit, alter, then make up item. Don't ask me why, but after doing this one properly, I found that I really enjoyed the process of making a rough draft. It put my mind at ease about cutting into the good fabric. 
I want to do more sewing for myself so I need to get over the fear of it not fitting first time. 

There wasn't much to alter on this pattern anyway. I found that the sleeves on the muslin were too restrictive so I used a 1/2" seam allowance on the underarm seam instead of 5/8" and that gave me more ease of movement. I lengthened the bottom hem by 2" as the original was hitting my waistline before it was hemmed and it would have been way too short. This worked out to be a perfect length for me and I am really happy with it.

The details are what make this pattern so much fun. The exposed zip gives a bit of interest to the back, I especially like the look of the metal in contrast to the soft chambray. The instructions on how to install the zip were superb and I especially liked the added information on how to shorten the metal zip and finish it all off.

The yoke is self lined and the finish looks clean and professional. The neck facings cut on the bias sit beautifully and the scoop neck is just the right shape.

I really enjoyed the process of making this one, the hand sewing to finish the hems was time well spent as it looks lovely from the outside. I hope to try this again and would like to see how it looks in a ponte. That would be very comfy! 

The other part of this pattern is the trousers/pants and my daughter thinks I should try the cropped versions for summer. I need more convincing but if we have a hot summer they might be just the things to stock up with. I don't work in an office so if I make them up they will be more casual than smart. They would look great in linen.

There is a sewalong going on over on the Lisette blog and over the next few weeks there will be 3 patterns to choose from. The Moto Jacket is up first and I can't wait to give that a try.

Thursday, 5 March 2015

Oliver and S Carousel Dress

This is the Carousel Dress by Oliver and S. 
It has been patiently waiting on my shelf for me to get around to it, even having fabric sitting underneath for good measure. I wanted to try this for my youngest daughter who hasn't started school yet but is in nursery a couple of days a week. It looked like a good dress style to play in, but at the same time not too shabby to take her out afterwards.

I ended up making two versions of the pattern due to the sizing. I know that she fits (an O+S) size 3 for her upper body and a size 2 for her lower half. I got away with a size 3 Bubble Dress so thought I would be okay. Wrong! 

In terms of photo's I have picked the best of the bunch but the dress swamps her. It is quite roomy around the shoulders, the sleeves look quite billowy and the lower half has too much spare fabric for her frame. BUT... better too big than too small! Seeing as how I enjoyed making it up and loved the finished article, I pulled out the pattern sheet and traced off the size 2.

The fit of the dress is quite relaxed through the waist and hips and the raglan sleeves are shaped with a shoulder dart which makes it sit really nicely.

Over in the flickr group there is an absolutely gorgeous version of the Carousel by Wagyu Burger that is a shorter style. Leaving off the bottom hem gives you the perfect length for a top. So using that version for inspiration I cut out some brushed cotton check, cut the pockets on the bias and added some crochet lace trim over the sleeve hem seams.

If I am honest, I think I love this length even more! It is incredibly versatile, looks so cute with a pair of jeans or leggings and will probably get pulled out of the drawer more often.

This is the very last of a scrap of fabric I saved over from this Ottobre dress. Being a heavy brushed cotton, it suits our current climate better than my first version. I don't usually sew up things in advance but the dress will be perfect in summer as it is nice and light. So that is one for the warmer weather wardrobe and one for now!