Tuesday, 2 June 2015

Grainline Archer with Lisette Portfolio Pants


I am happy to report that I have been carrying on from my Negroni Shirt with some more adult sewing. This time for me!

I finally took the plunge and sewed up the much raved about Grainline Archer Shirt. I have been stocking up on potential fabrics for this shirt but not wanting to cut into any of them until I did a test run. I have a really nice ex Paul Smith brushed check fabric and some Robert Kaufman Chambray sitting on the shelf but was terrified of making a balls up and wasting good fabric. I picked up enough of this cotton lawn to try it out. At £4.99 a meter it was too good to miss!



I went with the size 14 as I was in between sizes and think the fit is pretty spot on. I will need to take an inch off the length of the sleeves next time as the cuffs sit quite low on my wrist. Otherwise I am really happy with it.



A while back I dyed a length of white linen a lovely red colour to make up a dress with. As I was looking for a contrast fabric for the under collar it caught my eye and surprise surprise, it was the perfect shade to match the flowers. What a happy coincidence! 



When I bought this pattern I thought I would make view A first. Something about the drape of the lawn made me go for view B though and I am glad I did. I like the dipped hem at the back, it looks really pretty, and it is something different. 


Moving on to my second item, the Lisette Portfolio Pants. I have seen lots of these that I like in the flickr pool. I was a bit more apprehensive about the fit on these but with some alterations I think I have got it right!

I made up a muslin with no modifications and after a quick assessment with the help of this Colette Patterns pants cheat sheet, I figured out what I need to do.

I did a large waist adjustment and added on 3/4" to the waistband and trouser pieces just like they instructed. I wasn't sure it was going to make much difference, it didn't seem to alter the pieces by much, but the difference between the muslin and the first fitting was incredible. They suddenly fit just right. Where they were pulling and tight before, they sat perfectly. Hurrah!


I used the same navy linen as hubby's Negroni shirt as it has become my go-to first test fabric. It creases like a beast but is so nice to wear and will be cool in the hot weather. I can live with a few wrinkles!


The pants have some beautiful details. There are two tabs to the front waistband which you fix down with buttons. You are supposed to add 3 to each one but I went with 2 because that is what I had.

I am about 80% happy with my zip. It seems to pucker out at the bottom and while I am sure that is down to my insertion skills, I would like to use an invisible zip next time. I just think it would look cleaner and keep the line over my hips smoother.


There was some Liberty fabric left over from Boo's Ice Cream top to use for the facings. It makes me smile to know it is there.


The pants have cuffs to the bottom which finish it all off nicely. I like the shorter ankle length for a casual trouser but would prefer another inch (maybe inch and a half) on the bottom to make them more wearable for my height.






11 comments:

  1. Both are great! They look so professional and I love both fabrics.

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    1. Thank you! Considering they were both test runs for my other fabric, I think they will worn frequently. I need more practice sewing adult garments but you can put your faith into a Lisette pattern and know it will come out right in the end!

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  2. Two fantastic and very nicely sewn pieces! I love the portfolio pants on you! That could definitely be a TNT pattern for you - I agree, longer trousers would be great. Or if you want to go really cropped, maybe a few inches shorter than this version. Love it!

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    1. Thanks Inder! I am glad to have been successful with the pants. I have made a pledge to not wear my jeans all the time. They are seriously the first things I reach for and I want to change that.
      I think both of these will be made again.

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  3. The shirt is lovely and I love the pants - the shorter length works so well in linen (I find them slightly short on me, and I'm not tall) - also, re the invisible zip - I used invisible zips on mine, and one ended up breaking - maybe too much stress? Or just a bad zip.....anyhow, had to replace it with a normal zip.

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    1. You and Nicole are so good with your advice! Thank you both!
      I have a ton of 7" zips so if I master the art of putting them in properly I am laughing. I have them in all the useful colours! I want to try the invisible option as well but will heed your advice.

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  4. What a lovely smart outfit, you look gorgeous!

    Just a warning, I used an invisible zip on a pair and it gaped terribly, I am probably a far bit chunkier then you but I was disappointed. I, also, add to the waist and the leg but they are still my go to trousers
    xx N

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    1. Thank you so much! (Can you tell I am uncomfortable in front of the camera?! I much prefer behind behind the lens. Ha!)
      I have some more fabric to make these pants up again but would be interested to know if I should size down (keeping the same alterations) for a stretch woven. What do you think?
      And, you are not!!

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    2. Yes, do!
      My stretch ones 'grow' as the day goes on.

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  5. Nice outfit! I have the Portfolio pattern (bought specifically for the pants) but I have been afraid to try them. Yours look great - the length is adorable and I think the tabs look better with three buttons rather than two.

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    1. Thanks Masha! Don't be afraid, I put these off for ages and they are well worth making. Put them on your to-do list!

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