Thursday, 15 June 2017

Melilot Shirt by Deer & Doe

Pattern: Melilot by Deer and Doe
Fabric used: Lightweight Chambray Shirting from Minerva Crafts 
and some Liberty of London trims.
Size Made: 46

For a very long time now I have been putting this pattern in my basket and taking it out again all with the thought that I didn't need it. Well Me Made May practically killed all my resolve and I eventually bought it! 

The one thing about making an effort to wear all your handmade wardrobe is that all the gaps suddenly jump out at you. I really did need a short sleeved shirt. Something casual yet with nice tailored lines. This fit the bill.

It has a dropped shoulder, so no seams around that area, making it extra comfortable to wear. The cuffs add a polished touch and because of the curve of the underarm, they tuck in nicely to the side seams. I noticed that my Deer and Doe Arum dress has this same short underarm curve and I like it.

The darts hit at just the right place for me, no adjustments necessary. I went for the larger bust size of 41" rather than the 39.5" that I could have traced off, purely because I didn't want it to be too tight. A couple of my bras have foam cups and thinking about that I decided to go for the extra ease.

The pockets are lined! I know, it took me by surprise too! And while they are finished beautifully inside, I wasn't careful enough to avoid a little peek of it showing as you look at it side on. But I did use some Liberty Lawn so all's well that ends well. 

I used my Liberty fabric on the collar stand facing and the under collar too. My daughter chose the buttons seeing as I have a terrible crisis every time I come to choose buttons for a shirt. She chose these smokey grey coloured ones which I love the look of. Good girl!

A few years ago, I really didn't like collared shirts. I used to go for the mandarin collars every time because I think the full collars reminded me of school/work uniform. However, since then I have had a change of heart and now enjoy wearing them. This collar went on smoothly. I seem to be getting better at wearing them and sewing them!

This pattern turned out to be very economical. I ordered a meter of fabric alongside my pattern. It was a 58" wide piece and so I hoped that I could squeeze the whole thing onto my meter. (The pattern specs recommend 1.20m for a 60" wide fabric) I knew my facings were to be cut out of something else. Keeping my fingers crossed paid off...

Phew! Bear in mind that this is the largest size as well. It only just fit! The only other bits I needed to cut were the pocket linings, collar stand facing and under collar. All which came out of my Liberty piece. 

The construction went very smoothly. All the seams are French seams and the bottom hems are completed before you stitch the side seams. The curve is quite sharp at the side edges and a narrow 1/4" hem is required. Bearing this in mind, I overlocked my raw edges first.

This gave me a nice flexible line for turning up the narrow hem. You fold it up twice and stitch it down. I found that overlocking it first meant that it was less fiddly and I didn't burn my fingers with the steam from the iron!

I adore this shirt. I just want to make more of them. The lines of the pattern are beautiful and my husband said it was a great cut on me. So that means it is a winner!


  1. It is PERFECT!!!! I'm so impressed! You absolutely need more of these in your wardrobe, the fit is spot-on, and the shape is extremely flattering on you. Liberty details! And I love how tight your cutting was, hardly any waste there!

    1. Thanks Inder! I am hoping to get lots of wear out of it.

  2. This is so lovely on you. The fit is absolutely perfect. I've had my eye on this pattern for awhile ... might have to pull the trigger.

    1. I resisted too, but it was well worth the wait. Thanks Masha!

  3. It looks great! I've been on the look-out for a short-sleeved button-up shirt; I may have to give that pattern a try!

    1. Its great, and there are no sleeves to set in! Thank you!

  4. That is really a lovely looking shirt - it suits you very well! This, and the Belladone dress, and possibly the Arum dress are the Deer & Doe patterns I am considering, and seeing shirts like this one is really selling it to me!

    1. Thank you so much! I get on with D&D patterns and have made the Arum a couple of times. I still have the Centauree and Aubepine dresses to try from my pattern stash.
      You have just reminded me to make another one of these though!!