Wednesday, 30 January 2019

Grainline Cascade Duffle Coat

Fabric: Grey Melton (main), quilting cotton (lining), sateen (sleeve lining)
Size made: 14

I have wanted a duffle coat for a long time so was really excited to finally try out this pattern. When my old everyday winter coat started looking a bit shabby I decided to replace it with something handmade.  Lucky for me I had about 3m of this grey melton fabric stashed away. Unlucky for my husband, it will now never become a Thread Theory Goldstream Peacoat. You snooze you lose!

This is view B, the longer thigh length version. I wanted the extra warmth that comes with a longer coat. I think the shorter version would be good for Spring time around these parts and it would really smarten up an outfit. But for now, I wanted to be snuggly.

The wool is perhaps a lighter weight than I would deem perfect, but it certainly is warm. Also water just pills up on the surface and can be shaken off so it doesn't get too saturated. I dislike how it creases easily and a heavier weight fabric would definitely look better after sitting down in it for a while.

Grainline always has well written patterns and for the majority of their range, there is a sewalong to accompany them. The Cascade sewalong is excellent, and I followed it while I made this. I found having a visual aid along the way helped to clear up any niggles. I found it useful when attaching the hood. There was an excess of fabric that was puzzling me, but in the sewalong, it showed you to fold it over near the edge. 

I chose to use the contrast lining for the zipper bands. I wish I hadn't. I don't like how the contrast peeks out from under the center front bands. So, note to self, don't do that next time!

I had a go at making the toggles, and they don't look too bad! A while back, I picked up a bag of leather scraps and matched the dark brown to some buttons I had in my drawer. I was a bit worried about them not holding together, but with the aid of some Gorilla Glue, I don't think the straps are going anywhere. They are pretty stuck down!

The hood is just lovely. It is very deep and roomy and I like how the lining fabric has a chance to be on display.

The construction of the coat went very smoothly. That moment when you are bagging the lining and turning it out never fails to scare me but I needn't have worried, it all sits so nicely. 

I used the quilting cotton for the sleeves too but at the tops I lined the upper half of the sleeve lining with black sateen. This just helps the coat to slip on and off easily. I wanted the sleeves to keep me warm without being cumbersome. It worked out well.

 I would definitely make this again. It is a slow and steady type of project, and requires a lot of cutting out but the sizing is spot on for me and I am getting lots of wear out of it already.

Thanks for reading!