I had this Kwik Sew pattern stashed away and had been wanting to try it for a while so I ordered the supplies I needed for the 'real' version and got to work on a trial run through.
There are a couple of tricky techniques called for in this pattern, namely a welt pocket with the added flourish of a zip. My experience of sewing welts started with this raincoat (which was hellish in the fabric) and the Oliver and S Art Museum Trousers which were plain sailing. I knew I could always fall back on the O+S instructions if I needed to, but had faith in the Kwik Sew instructions which have always been excellent in the past.
My test run proved that the instructions were brilliant and easy to follow. I had no problems constructing the pocket and adding the zip.
I used thick fleece for the navy version you see here and that would have been a little trickier to get a neat welt out of. Knowing this is what I would be working with (and taking heed from Shelley) I decided to change the pattern up to make this easier. Instead of the welt pocket being on the outside, I put it inside the vest meaning I could make it from the cotton poplin lining fabric.
I also extended the back lining to full length as it was more the look I wanted. The lower pockets have a faux welt look and the pocket bags are made from the lining fabric. I therefore had to make the decision between having the pretty flowery fabric right-side out to match the rest of the inner lining or flip it and have the flowers peeking out of the pockets from the outer side.
I figured since the jacket would be seen mostly from the outside, that the reversed inside wouldn't be a big issue.
I didn't tamper with the length at all. I liked that the elasticated casing tucked neatly under her bottom and kept the wind out. The only bit of sewing that was tough was attaching the casing. My fleece is beautifully soft and thick so when it came to the casing, it meant I was going through 3 layers of fleece and 1 of poplin. My machine got through it but I felt like we had battled!
A felt heart served as the anchor point for my size label.
And there you can see the zippered welt tucked neatly into the upper lining piece. We put her little pocket camera in there during our days out and it was a nice safe place for it to be carried around in.
Pattern: Kwik Sew 3816
Size made: XL (12-14years)
Fabric used: Speckled Fleece from Pennine Outdoor and poplin for the lining
The resulting vest is one of the best items of clothing I have made for her. It is amazingly soft and snug, yet very practical for playing in. I am glad I picked the navy colour as it will match a lot of her clothes without thinking about it too much.